Interview with legendary Swiss chef Irma Dütsch
Irma Dütsch, legendary Swiss “Michelin star” chef and restauranteur
When you think of Switzerland, what may first come to mind are the magnificent alps and crystal clear lakes. Switzerland also happens to have a fabulous gastronomy scene – and some extraordinary chefs.
On a recent trip to Switzerland, I sat down for an interview with legendary chef, Irma Dütsch. I had travelled to the charming, car-free, alpine village resort of Saas-Fee in the Valais region. Saas-Fee is known for its proximity to many trails for hikers and skiers, Gault Millau dining and annual food festival, the Nostalgic Culinary Mile.
Irma Dütsch is no ordinary chef. She is the first female chef in Switzerland to be awarded a Michelin star. Fondly known as the “Grande Dame de la Haute Cuisine,” Dütsch is also the first female in Switzerland to qualify as a professional chef, in an industry dominated by men for eons. An extraordinary accomplishment.
Our rendezvous was at the charming Restaurant Swiss Chalet, owned by local chef Holger Schulthesis and his wife, whose fun cooking class I took the night before. I had filmed a short video of my interview with Dütsch, but unfortunately, the video has some tech issues (no thanks to my tech skills). Once I got home and reviewed it, I decided I could not use it. Though since I had plenty of time on my hands during the pandemic lockdown, I recently revisited our discussion and, inspired by this remarkably creative woman, decided to post the video anyway, even though it is a bit fuzzy.
Dütsch was born and raised on a farm in Switzerland. She went to study in Rheinfeldon, in the German area of Switzerland (located along the Rhine river), and became the first Swiss woman to quality as a professional chef. Her dream, since the age of 5, was to be a chef and restauranteur. She followed her heart. For more than three decades, Dütsch, along with with her husband Jans-Jorg Dütsch, ran the Waldehotel Flestchhorn restaurant in Saas-Fee. In addition to receiving a Michelin star, the influential Gault & Millau restaurant guide awarded her 18 out of 20 points (the maximum allowable).
Today, Dütsch spends her time consulting and writing, and is often called upon as a guest chef on the international stage. She has several cookbooks under her belt, including a children’s cookbook. As well, she has a Canadian connection, as she has previously lived and worked in Montreal.
In her own words:
The conversation was edited for clarity and length.
SS: When did you first decide you wanted to be a chef?
ID: I was 5 years old when I knew I wanted to be a chef.
SS: What was it that inspired you?
My mother cooked every day. I loved the food and I liked to see the preparation. It is life in the kitchen.
My father died on Christmas. I wanted to help my mother. She was a school teacher for cooking.
SS: You are an acclaimed female chef in a male-dominated industry. What was it like for you starting out?
It was very difficult to learn to be a chef because nobody wanted me. I come from the French-speaking part of Switzerland, from Gruyere, where the cheese comes from, so I had to go to the German part to learn how to cook because nobody wanted me. So it was not easy. But I did do it. I was the first female chef in Switzerland.
SS: How does that make you feel?
ID: I don’t think about that. I am what I am.
SS: What is the biggest challenge you faced as you were developing your career as a chef?
ID: First, I did it for myself and after that I saw that people love my food. So I would do more and more to make people happy.
SS: Ws there ever a time you said I can’t do this, it is too hard?
ID: Never. Never. I still do it and I like to do it.
SS: You live here now in Switzerland. You’ve worked in Montreal and one of your children was born in Montreal.
ID: Yes, Sandra was born in Montreal. A beautiful town. I love Canada because we married in Canada. I would like to go back to Canada one day.
SS. If you had to turn back the clock, with everything you’ve learned now as a chef, travelling the world, cooking for many people, married with kids – if you could go back, would you do anything different?
ID: I don’t think so. I just want to be a chef.
SS: You have a children’s cookbook. What interests you in teaching kids how to cook?
ID: The test and how to do it by themselves. And to eat well because when you are small and you are eating well you eat well all your life. I don’t know nobody that is not eating well and not doing good work.
SS. If you had any advice for a young girl who now has a dream to be a chef, what would you say to her?
ID: Do it, but stay in the kitchen. Do not go away and do something different. Never do something different. Stay in the kitchen and work and learn.
Background:
The Michelin star and why it is significant:
Michelin, originally a France-based tire company founded by two brothers, began producing travel guides in 1900 to encourage people to drive their cars around France (and of course to buy tires). In 1926, the company began to include in their guides the Michelin stars, which is a grading system for restaurants (1-3 stars, with 3 being the most extraordinary). Today, the majority of chefs with Michelin stars are male, with only about 100 (that I could track) are women.
About the Valais region:
Valais canton (region) in Switzerland is a land of gourmet delights, such as fine wines from stunning vineyards to fruit orchards and rare spices, to traditional rye bread and the famous Swiss raclette.
Resources: Swiss Tourism, Valais/Wallis Tourism, Saas-Fee Tourism.
Related posts:
Making ancient rye bread in Switzerland
7 days in Valais, Switzerland: wine, cheese and marmots
Dalai Lama, Swiss Robin Hood and the pursuit of happiness
This Swiss female winemaker is trailblazing
Shannon Skinner is an author, travel writer, radio and TV host, and creator/host of ExtraordinaryWomenTV.com. She lives in Toronto.
