Geneva’s annual Escalade festival
Every year on December11-12, Geneva holds an annual festival, Escalade, celebrating its victory over the Savoyard soldiers on the night of December 11-12, 1602. There is a torch-bearing procession of locals dressed in period costumes through the streets of the old town. Many restaurants have special menus for the occasion and families get-together to celebrate over food.
Beginning of the Escalade procession
Geneva, Switzerland is located in the heart of Europe and, as the world’s capital of peace, is filled with peace-making and humanitarian history. It is also the paradise for chocolate lovers. After all, the Swiss invented both dark and milk chocolate.
I love chocolate and European history, and when the two come together, I am in heaven.
December 2014, I travelled to Geneva to attend Escalade, an annual celebration of Geneva’s victory of a famous battle that took place the night of December 11-12, 1602 – more than 400 years ago.
Historically, at the time, Geneva was not yet part of the Swiss Confederation. The Duke of Savoy, determined to reclaim the wealthy city after having lost it, sent his soldiers during the cover of night to climb the fortified walls to seize it. A terrible battle ensued, many lost their lives, but several residents were courageous and are still today remembered for it.
In particular, a local woman, Mère Royaume, climbed onto the city walls and poured a cauldron of hot soup over the head of an intruding Savoyard soldier. To honour her heroism, and to remember her by, Geneva’s chocolatiers created special “chocolate pots,” which are ornately designed and filled with tiny marzipan vegetables, a symbol of her cauldron of soup. Although the date of the origins of Geneva’s chocolate pot is unknown (chocolate in the form we have come to know was not yet invented), it has been a long tradition in this city to make these special treats for the Escalade celebrations.
During Escalade, locals get dressed in period costumes and walk, or ride horses, around the old town recreating the atmosphere of the 17th century, where mulled wine fills the air, and one can try roasted boar that is cooked in the open air, and other foods of the era.
On the evening of December 12th, (or the closest date to it that falls on a weekend), there is a traditional torch bearing procession with locals in costume through the streets of the old town. Unfortunately for me, this year, it poured rain the night of the procession. As I stood in the bone-chilling downpour, along with many others who braved the weather, under a canopy of umbrellas, the theatrics gave me a real sense of that time in history. A proclamation of victory is read while folks are gathered around, then many broke out into singing patriotic songs. It was worth every second.
There are many other activities throughout the Escalade weekend in Geneva. Several restaurants have special menus for the occasion. Families get together to celebrate over food and, of course, the famous “chocolate pots.”
The chocolate pots of Escalade (I made this one)
According to tradition, the chocolate pot is put on the table, and then the eldest and youngest in the room join hands and together they smash it, releasing the contents of tiny marzipan vegetables for everyone to enjoy.
At a restaurant in the old town, I had the privilege of witnessing a large family who gathered to celebrate Escalade. After eating their meal, a large chocolate pot was put in the centre of the table, everyone in the room broke into a traditional folksong, and grandpa and a child, together, smashed the chocolate pot to smithereens. Everyone in the restaurant cheered them on, clapping and singing. It was so much fun, I only wish I had known the songs.
There is nothing like Escalade anywhere in the world. So if you enjoy history and want to try these special chocolate pots, pack your bags and go to Geneva in December.
Photo credit: all small photos of Escalade courtesy of Swiss Tourism.
Resources: Geneva Tourism and Switzerland Tourism
Shannon Skinner is the award-winning host/creator of ExtraordinaryWomenTV.com, radio host, international speaker, author and travel writer.
*This article was originally published in Infinity Magazine.
This Swiss female winemaker is trailblazing
Mathilde Roux, owner of Cave de L’Orlaya, is a winemaker in the Swiss region of Valais, a relatively small, but important wine region in Switzerland. At 29 years of age, this trailblazer is one of few female winemakers in the country.
Mathilde Roux
I recently visited the Valais region of Switzerland to learn about Swiss wine. I’ve been fascinated with Swiss wine since my last trip to Geneva in 2014, and discovered that the Swiss only export a small portion of their wines, which means if you want to taste Swiss wine, you have to go to Switzerland. On my trip, I was scheduled to meet Mathilde and tour her vineyard and winery, but due to an unexpected schedule change, I was not able to make it.
So upon my return to Toronto, I did a Q&A interview with her to share on this blog. She is passionate about her business and an inspiring young woman.
Here it is – enjoy!
Mathilde Roux was born in France and grew up in the southern Côtes du Rhône, in Gigondas, where her parents were wine producers. At age 11, she moved to Switzerland with her family.
Roux’s vineyards
As a university student, she obtained a Bachelor’s degree in Life Science at EPFL and then studied at the Agronomy School of Montpellier and obtained a Master’s degree in Wine and a National Diploma of Oenologist. After two internships in Côtes du Rhône, at the prestigious Châteauneuf du Pape (Clos du Caillou) and Tain l’Hermitage (Paul Jaboulet Ainé), she returned to Switzerland to work in the canton of Vaud and had several experiences in wine production (La Côte – Hammel, Lavaux – Raymond Chappuis, Chablais – Christophe Schenk). She also discovered some winemaking methods by going abroad to New Zealand (Marsico Vineyard) and South Africa (Morgenhof).
Later, as fate may have it, through mutual friends she met the owner of the Cave Orlaya winery at the time, Gérard Roduit. She fell in love with Valais wines and so she decided to move to Fully in the Valais region and make fabulous wines that the Valais is known for. And so, in 2016, she purchased the Cave de L’Orlaya (8 hectares) cellar from Ronduit (he had three children who did not want the business) and she now manages it. Some of the grapes they grow include Petite Arvine, the signature varietal of the Valais region, Humagne, Gamay, Pinot Noir and others. She produces 65,000 bottles of wine per year.
Mathilde with Paul Roduit (left), son of the previous owner, and boyfriend , Jan Počta (right)
SS: What inspired you to become a winemaker?
MR: As a kid, I was always outside playing in the vines and being around my dad. I can remember every time of the year with its (seasonal) ambiance. Harvest time, it was lots of work, but also there was so much exchange and partying. Winter, when he was traveling abroad to meet clients. Spring, when the new vintage started, and you are always outside – and summer. I saw that I loved the changes throughout the year and loved to make something from nature that you have to sell.
SS: What is your first memory of wanting to become a winemaker?
MR: The idea was never like a flash, but more like something that started naturally to be a wish. Seeing my dad and my mom all year working, I think I said to myself “this is what I want to do in life.” Of course, it got reinforced with time when I started to taste wines.
SS: What makes your vineyard and winery unique?
MR: I don’t know if it is unique, but I have a vineyard with steep slopes (up to 60%) and many local varieties (around 15 different ones). I bought a winery that is 35 years old in the middle of habitation, and I’m making lots of improvement renovations.
SS: How did you choose the kinds wines that you make?
MR: I think it is more about the terroir I chose. Here in Fully, we have granitic soil, which allow us to make wines with minerality and tension. So I try to respect this terroir and respect the grapes as much as I can to keep elegance and minerality in the wines.
SS: What is the biggest challenge you face in your business?
MR: I have a small winery and I sell everything myself, so the biggest challenge was to make myself a name and to find my own clients.
SS: What is it like to be a female winemaker in what is traditionally a male-dominated industry?
MR: I think nowadays it is okay. You still can have small “jokes” or remarks that are about our differences. It’s usually not a problem now. It can also be a big advantage to be a lady because the public is really enthusiast about a lady winemaker and optimistic about us, which gives us good exposure.
SS: It isn’t easy being a winemaker. Where do you find support to keep going?
MR: My family and especially my parents who know what I am going through. My boyfriend and some friends. Also wine producers in Fully are amazing and they have been supporting me a lot.
SS: I understand you have an interest in biodynamic viticulture and organic winemaking in the future. Could you explain?
MR: I am not exactly in biodynamic now. We will make a trial next year. We are almost organic. We will be probably be organic next year. This transition from traditional to organic (winemaking) needs a little bit of time to adjust.
For more information about Mathilde Roux and Cave de L’Ordlaya, or to contact her, visit her website.
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For similar stories, read more about my travels through Switzerland:
7 Days in Valais, Switzerland: wine, cheese and marmots
Valais, Switzerland vineyard hike and wine festival
This Swiss Hotel and Thermal Park is ideal for wellness travel: review
Inside Switzerland’s Kasperskian Caviar company: caviar with life
Shannon Skinner is an award-winning host/creator of ExtraordinaryWomenTV.com, radio host, international speaker, author and travel journalist. She lives to travel the world, discover fine wines and write about it. Follow her on Twitter at @Shannon_Skinner.
Wachau, Austria’s spectacular wine region
Wachau, Austria
The Wachau Valley region in Austria, a UNESCO world heritage site, is one of the world’s most beautiful wine regions. Situated along the Danube river between Krems and Melk, and only 20 kms in length, its steep, terraced vineyards, charming villages and castles can take your breath away. Here, some of the world’s best white wines are produced, in particular Grüner Veltliner and Rieslings.
Our Viking River Cruises ship pulling into Krems
This summer, I got to experience the Wachau Valley from the deck of my Viking River Cruise longboat as we cruised the Danube, about an hour from Vienna. I was excited to see it after discovering the region in my wine specialist program at George Brown College.
More Wachau Valley, villages and vineyard in the distance
One of our Viking excursions was to the Göttweig Abbey, a 900+ years working monastery where 50 Benedictine monks live and work, high on top of a hill overlooking the region. The Abbey is near Krems. There is stunning Austrian scenery for as far as the eyes can see.
That’s me on the terrace of Gottweig Abbey, overlooking the community below
The church and cloisters of Gottweig Abbey
The monks grow grapes, and make and sell their own wine, which benefits the community. They also make a delicious apricot nectar.
Tasting Gottweig Wines
The Wachau region is not large. There are more than 900 sites in this small area. Like many other European countries, many of the Wachau vineyards and wineries are family-owned and go back several generations. Of particular note, the oldest winery in Austria is Nikolaihof, dating back to the year 777.
What makes the Wachau river valley ideal for grape-growing is that it has a short winter and long, dry growing season, and moderate the climate.
The grape varieties the Wachau does best:
Grüner Veltliner: The traditional grape in Wachau. A mineral dry white wine, with notes that range from spicy/herbal, to floral and fruity, with good acidity.
Riesling: Similar in style to Rieslings of Alsace, a range of complex aromas, and salty mineral.
IF YOU GO…
One of the best ways to see the Wachau Valley is to take a river cruise. Check out Viking River Cruise’s offering.
Also consider doing a cycling tour through the vineyards. It looks like loads of fun and you get exercise while you are at it.
The village of Durnstein is filled with quaint buildings, and the Durstein Castle is nearby, where Richard Lion-Heart was held captive. It is no wonder Princess Diana and Dodie Fayed loved to vacation here.
Shannon Skinner is an award-winning host and creator of ExtraordinaryWomenTV, radio host, author, international speaker and travel journalist. She lives to travel the world and taste fine wines and vegetarian culinary delights.
Read similar stories:
- Read about my Viking River Cruise experience
- 12 Hours in Vienna
- Budapest: Photo Essay
- Valais, Switzerland vineyard hike and wine festival
- UNESCO wine regions of the world
- Tips for Hosting a Wine Tasting Party
7 days in Valais, Switzerland: wine, cheese and marmots
Moi at Moiry Lake
In the heart of the Swiss Alps is Valais, Switzerland’s garden of plenty. Due to lots of sunshine and the Rhone River, this valley is Switzerland’s most important wine region filled with vineyards, orchards, local culinary specialties – and stunning nature.
In September, I set out for a week of sightseeing, and food and wine tasting in Valais. This is my Valais story.
Vineyards of Saillon
Day 1: Saillon
My journey begins at Saillon, located between Martigny and Sion, which boasts a mild climate, a stunning view of vineyards and the Alps, and an historic village. My guide takes me walking through the vineyards, until we reach the world’s smallest vineyard (1.6 square meters, 3 vines), owned by the Dalai Lama, and tended to by many celebrities. Overlooking the valley, the vineyard memorializes a bandit, fondly known as “Robin Hood of the Alps,” Joseph-Samuel Farinet.
Les Bains des Saillon thermal spa and hotel
I settle in for some R&R at the thermal spa and wellness centre and hotel, Les Bains des Saillon (the Baths of Saillon).
Day 2: Leuk and Chandolin
Off to Leuk by train, where I meet up with a group and our first guided tour is of a caviar production facility, Kasperskian Caviar, which uses a sustainable means of retrieving eggs from the female sturgeons while keeping them alive. Their motto: Cavair with Life.
Tasting the caviar (not for vegetarian me, though)
Transfer by bus to Salgesh, where we visit Cave du Rhodan winery, owned by award-winning winemaker, Olivier Mournir, who is renowned for sustainability and biodynamic methods, and producing their own solar power.
Olivier Mournir
Then, wine tasting!
Cave du Rhodan wines
A shuttle to the village of Chandolin in the alpine valley, Val d’Anniviers, about a 40 mins. drive. I settle into the new Chandolin Boutique Hotel, a traditional Swiss-style building with a stunning view of the Alps, and spa. Meals are delicious and creatively presented. Sommelier Thomas Scheidt serves fantastic wines from the region.
Chandolin Boutique Hotel, traditional Swiss-style
View from my room
Day 3: Moiry and Grimentz, Val d’Anniviers
Moi, in deep contemplation at Moiry Lake. Moiry Glacier in the distance.
By mini-bus, we drive up, up, up into the Alps for a guided group tour of glacial Moiry Lake and Dam, in Val d’Anniviers, 4,000m, at the timberline.
Continuing on, after a few white-knuckle, hairpin turns, we reach an alpine pasture where we visit a remote dairy farm and learn about making raclette from a master cheese-maker.
Isabelle, Master Cheese-Maker
Swiss cow
For lunch, we stop in the quaint village of Grimentz, at the Hotel et Restaurant de Moiry. Carnivores in our group (all but me) are served a traditional plate of dry meat, cheese and rye bread – and Valais wine. I enjoy a lovely veggie soup.
Then it’s time to learn how to make rye bread from an ancient recipe. In a smoke-tainted antique bakery, we roll up our sleeves, roll the dough into form, and put it into a wood-burning oven. We sip on delicious Valais fendant wine while waiting to taste the bread.
Day 4: Sierre and Saas-Fee
We being the morning – in rain – doing a Vineyard Hike and wine festival that is held along a 6km Vineyard Trail, from Sierre to Salgesch. Walking along are vineyards, wineries, local winemakers with samples of their wines, food stalls serving delicious raclette, live music, and incredible views of the surrounding area.
Walking along the trail
Then, it’s a train and bus ride to Saas-Fee, a car-free village and ski resort, one of the highest villages in Europe. I check into the Hotel Ferienart Resort & Spa, and settle into a large, comfortable room with a view of the mountains. There are three restaurants and a fabulous traditional Swiss breakfast buffet, and the spa facilities are impressive.
Ferienart Resort & Spa
Next is a cooking class with Swiss chef, Holger Schultheis, at the restaurant he owns with his wife, Iris (also a chef), Restaurant Swiss Chalet. We are making steak tartar and, for me, vegetarian pasta. Since I am vegetarian, I opt to make the dessert, a chocolate fudge dish. The cooking lesson is fun, albeit harried. At dinnertime, along with 10 of my new friends, we eat, drink Valais wines – and the atmosphere is divine.
Dessert I helped to make
Day 5: Saas-Fee
The one day annual Nostalgic Culinary Mile festival is on, highlighting local food specialties and live music. Many festival goers come in costumes from yesteryear. I taste a range of culinary delights and the local wine.
Me posing with a couple of young women in costume
Saas-Fee village getting ready for the festival
These guys were great.
Serving-up a traditional Swiss dish
Traditional costumes by festival-goers
After strolling up and down the street a few times, we board a cable car headed up to the glacier, and go for walk. We meet some friendly marmots, a comical rodent that whistles when they see hikers coming, and feed them peanuts.
Then a stop for hot chocolate takes the chill off.
Finally, it’s dinner at the Fierenart Hotel. The hotel manager gives a tour of the room that singer George Michael filmed Last Christmas. Ooh-la-la.
Day 6: Sass-Fee and Allalin Glacier
Cable car from Sass-Fee village up to the Allalin Glacier, at 3,500m. Members of the Swiss ski team are returning after their last run. Lunch is at the Revolving Restaurant Allalin (360 degrees), which provides a panoramic view of the mountains.
Next is a visit to the Allalin ice cave filled with ice sculptures. There is an avalanche simulation with lighting and sound effects, though I pass on it. The ice cave is entered through a 70m tunnel into the ancient glacier by an “underground” alpine train, which itself is a rush.
Then, it is back to the Restaurant Swiss Chalet to meet the first Swiss female chef to receive a Michelin Star, renowned Irma Dütsch.
Finally, an Italian dinner at the Ferienart Hotel.
Day 7: Saas-Fee and Geneva
I take the 6:30 am bus for Visp, to catch the train to Geneva airport, to fly home to Toronto.
IF YOU GO…
Where to stay in Valais:
Bains des Saillon (4 star), Saillon | Reservations: www.bainsdesaillon.ch/en/
Chandolin Boutique Hotel (4 star), Chandolin | Reservations: www.chandolinboutiquehotel.ch/
Hotel Ferienart Resort & Spa (5 star), Saas-Fee | Reservations: www.ferienart.ch
Getting there: the closest international airport is Geneva.
Getting Around: Best to have a car, but public transportation is efficient and easy. The Swiss Travel Pass provides unlimited rides on trains, buses, cable cars, boats and entrance to many museums and other attractions.
Resources: Swiss Tourism and Valais Tourism
I was a guest of Valais Tourism. Opinions are mine.
Shannon Skinner is an award-winning television and radio host, international speaker, author and travel journalist. Watch her interviews at ExtraordinaryWomenTV.com. Tweet to her at @Shannon_Skinner.
Sailing the Romantic Danube with Viking River Cruises
Hungarian Parliament
This summer, I went on a European river cruise with Viking River Cruises. This was my first cruise. When I began researching Viking River Cruises, I discovered their Romantic Danube, an 8-day itinerary which starts in Budapest, stops in Vienna, sails through a spectacular wine region in Austria, Wachau Valley, and ends in Nuremberg. These are places I really wanted to visit. So, it sounded perfect and I decided to give it a go – and I was pleasantly surprised.
Viking River Cruises longboat
Here are the highlights of our trip.
Day 1 – Budapest, Hungary
I boarded my Air Canada flight from Toronto direct to Budapest, arriving in the afternoon. Viking River Cruises had a bus pick us up at the airport and drove us directly to the ship. I had a bit of time to refresh, relax and get to know the ship, which was a new one. I was feeling a bit nervous about sailing, but soon found myself settling in and relaxing.
Palace lit up at night
Our first evening, we had lovely dinner while cruising the Danube at night, under a bright, full moon (or near full). Enchanting Budapest, Hungary’s capital, is actually two cities combined, Buda and Pest, with the Danube separating them. The Hungarian Parliament, one of the oldest in the world, was stunning, and so were so many other Budapest monuments such as the Chain Bridge and the castle. It was the perfect night.
After our cruise, I left the ship and walked around, solo, modern Pest, the flat side of the Danube. The cafes and restaurant patios were filled with customers, music filled the streets and there was a great vibe everywhere. And, by the way, I felt safe as a woman walking alone.
Day 2 – Budapest
We had a Panoramic tour of Budapest, including Castle District, in Buda. The weather scorching hot (35-36C)! From the top of the hill there is an incredible view of the Danube. We toured around the Heroes’ Square, Hungarian State Opera House, churches and other incredible buildings.
Later that afternoon, we cruised the Danube Bend, considered one of the most beautiful parts of the river, filled with hills and emerald-green forests, farmlands and an ancient castle.
- See my photo essay of Budapest
Day 3 – Vienna, Austria
When I woke early in the morning, we were already in Austria. I sat outside on my balcony, watching the shore and listening to…silence. It didn’t last long because soon we pulled into Vienna, the “City of Waltzes” and home of Mozart’s Magic Flute. This would be my second visit to the city. Our group was taken on a panoramic tour of Vienna where we say many of the city’s cultural sights, remarkable architecture, the Ringstrasse, Hofburg Palace, churches and coffee houses. Unfortunately, it poured (and I mean poured) rain all day.
In the afternoon, as an optional tour, I visited Schönbrunn Palace, the magnificent home of the Hapsburgs. Tourists queue for hours to get tickets, but Viking managed to arrange tickets in advance, so we got in quickly.
Peter Wolff, winemaker
This was followed by a special Heurigen dinner at the Heurige Wolff tavern, located just outside Vienna, in Neustift am Walde. A heurige is a festive tradition in Austria, which celebrates the bottling of the season’s vintage. Ever year, locals gather in the vintner’s wine tavern for food, wine and entertainment. This particular tavern we visited is owned by winemaker Peter Wolff, and sits on his vineyard. We were served a feast of traditional Austrian delights and wine, while being entertained by musicians.
Traditional Austrian fare
Enjoyed traditional Austrian music
- Read my post 12 Hours in Vienna
Day 4 – Krems, Austria
In the heart of the Wachau Valley (UNESCO), Krems is a town surrounded by stepped vineyards. This is Austria’s wine country, where some of the world’s best Riesling and Veltliner wines come from.
Grand staircase of Göttweig Abbey
We toured Göttweig Abbey, a working monastery for more than 900 years, which sits on top of a hill with a breathtaking view of the Wachau Valley and Danube. Here 50 Benedictine monks live and work, and serve their local community.
Wine tasting
We watched a short film that Viking produced just for its customers that highlights life of the monastery. The monks growing apricots and grapes, and make and sell wine. Its small museum spotlights its former roots as an Augustine monastery, and it has an impressive collection of art. We tasted delicious sparking apricot wine produced in the region, as well as a tasting of several wines from their vineyards.
We also had an apricot dumpling making lesson!
After, we sailed through the scenic Wachau Valley (UNESCO World Heritage Site), and its incredible landscape of vineyards, villages and monasteries. Stunning, absolutely stunning.
The steep slopes of the vineyards in Wachau Valley
Dürnstein, Austria, a favourite holiday spot of Princess Diana
Wachau Valley
Back at the ship…we had an apple strudel demonstration by our chef.
Day 5 – Salzburg, Austria
After disembarking in Passau, Germany (home of Europe’s largest pipe organ), we boarded a bus headed back to Austria, for the alpine city of Salzburg, birthplace of Mozart. This was an optional tour and I had been to Salzburg 30 years ago, but I jumped at the chance to visit again. We were hosted to a lovely lunch in St. Peter’s Cathedral’s restaurant, Austria’s oldest restaurant. There was musical entertainment by classically trained singers of a few songs from the Sound of Music, why of course.
Desert, a meringue. Super sweet, but delicious.
Salzburg is a pretty town and worth a visit, but it is also quite touristy.
Day 6 – Regensburg, Germany
One of my favourite spots in Europe, we spent the day walking around Regensburg’s medieval Old Town and its wonderful architecture that was left untouched from bombing during WWII. A UNESCO World Heritage Site, this charming city has a quaint shopping area, lots of cafes and restaurants and beer gardens, some which are famous for their beer. After all, this is Bavaria.
Days 7 & 8 – Nuremberg, Germany
Finally, our last stop was Bavaria’s second largest city, Nuremberg, known for its typical half-timbered houses and distinct Gothic churches. Unlike Regensburg, Nuremberg was nearly destroyed in bombing during WWII. I signed up for a history tour of the “rise and fall of the Nazi regime,” but at first I was skeptical that I made the right choice because, well, it’s dark history. But as it turned out it was one of the highlights and certainly most memorable parts of the entire trip.
Hitler’s grandstands where he gave speeches to 100,000s
Congress Hall, left unfinished
We toured the Nazi Party Rally Grounds, where thousands of German men gathered to salute Hitler, and where Hitler gave his speeches from his now shoddy grandstands. We saw Congress Hall that was designed based on Colosseum in Rome and the best example of Nazi Party architecture. On the Rally Grounds is the Documentation Centre, a museum with a huge multi-media collection about the Nazis and WW2 Germany.
Courtroom 600, Palace of Justice
What followed was a history lecture of the Nuremberg Trials in the famous courtroom where they were held, Courtroom 600 in the Palace of Justice. An intellectually stimulating day, indeed.
Day 8 – had a relaxing morning on the ship before heading to the airport in the afternoon to catch my flight for home.
The most important person on the ship, the Captain
My room, bright and plenty of space
A little traditional Austrian music on board
Notes and Tips:
The Ship: The ship was new and clean. My room was bright and spacious with plenty of closet and drawers for clothing. My bathroom shower had hot water.
Excursions: All ports where we stopped had excursions that were included and optional ones for an additional fee. In most cases, I did the included tours, but a few were optional and they were worth it. The Viking Cruises staff accommodated my requests.
Food & Drinks: The food was quite good and there was plenty to offer. As a vegetarian, they were able to accommodate my dietary needs. Every lunch and dinner the cook made a special vegetarian dish for me, which I am grateful for. Wine was included in both lunch and dinner, however, anything from the bar beyond that was an additional charge.
Entertainment: We had an array of nightly entertainment, from a pianist to destination lectures. Later in the evenings, some people got up and danced to the music.
Staff: friendly, resourceful and helpful. Meals were served swiftly and waiters had knowledge about the wine they were serving.
Solo Women-friendly: Yes. Note that Viking’s costs are based on double-occupancy. So if you want to travel solo and are willing to pay the additional price, and don’t mind if most other people on the ship are couples (or families), then go for it.
Additional Costs: Note that tipping is not included. At the end of the cruise, you can tip the staff as you choose, in the form of cash or on your credit card. It can be put on your final bill when you check out. Also, be mindful of bar costs, those drinks can quickly add up. Viking has a special drinks package you can purchase in advance that might save you money.
Reservations: to inquire about itineraries and make a reservation, visit Viking River Cruises.
I was guest of Viking River Cruises. Opinions are my own.
Shannon Skinner is an award-winning TV/radio host, international speaker, author and travel and wine writer. Watch her interviews with extraordinary women at www.ExtraordinaryWomenTV.com. Follow her on Twitter @Shannon_Skinner.
Japan: a pleasant cultural discovery at the ROM
I attended a lovely evening this week at the Royal Ontario Museum celebrating Japanese culture. Hosted by the Japan National Tourism Organization, it was a private event for ROM members, and it highlighted Japanese traditions and culture, from food to music.
The evening spotlighted Grammy-nominated Canadian flutist, Ron Korb, who lived and studied in Japan. Korb not only performed his lovely music for the audience, he also spoke about the essence of Japanese music.
I also learned a new word: Wabi-sabi:
Wabi-sabi is a world view centered on the acceptance of transience and imperfection. The aesthetic is sometimes described as one of beauty that is “imperfect, impermanent, and incomplete.” (Wikipedia)
Wabi-sabi, Korb explained, is like the cracks in Japanese pottery, or that wobble in the music of the flute.
There was a screening of a new short animated film (The Wind that Blows) by Toronto filmmaker, Patrick Jenkins, which featured Korb’s flute music.
After Korb’s concert, we had a tasting of Japanese sushi, desert, tea and rice wine (sake).
Sushi looked great, even as a vegetarian 🙂
Japanese desert – soft chocolate fudge/brownie with banana chips
Prepping the sushi
Sparking sake…yes, there is such a thing
Air Canada gave away a trip to Tokyo and a two-night stay at the Hotel New Otani Tokyo, but sadly, I was not the winner. *Sigh*
ROM’s Prince Takamado Gallery of Japan
If you are a museum lover, be sure to check out the ROM’s Prince Takamado Gallery of Japan.
I look forward to discovering more about Japan.
What do you love about Japanese culture? Tweet to me at @Shannon_Skinner.
Shannon Skinner is an award-winning broadcaster, international speaker, author and travel journalist. Watch her interviews with extraordinary women at www.ExtraordinaryWomenTV.com.
Valais, Switzerland vineyard hike and wine festival
Every September, the Valais region of Switzerland, in the heart of the Swiss Alps, holds a unique event, Marche des Cépages, or “walk of the grape varieties.” It is a celebration of Swiss wine, folklore and food, that brings out thousands of people, and not one to miss for any traveller who is interested in wine and gastronomy.
The walking trail takes you through vineyards and past many homes of the winemakers
I had the privilege to attend the walk of the grape varieties earlier this month. Since Swiss wine is hard to get your hands on outside of Switzerland (because they export so little of it, less than 2%), I was thrilled to have a chance to sip on the local wines and learn about the grape varietals, terroir and the industry.
We started off in the morning…how early is too early to start drinking wine?
This isn’t even the most stunning view (it rained too hard to get great shots of the most picturesque area, sad!)
The one day event is held along the 6 km Vineyard Trail, from Sierre (‘Siders’ in English) to Salgesch. The trail actually links the Valaisian vineyards and the Wine Museums based in Sierre and Salgesch. Along the trail are vineyards, wineries, and incredible views of the surrounding area. There are 80 markers along the trail that provide information about the local area, so it is really an open-air museum. It takes about 2.5 hours to walk the trail.
We started in Sierre, where we met our guide, but it is possible to also start in Salgesch. Our day began at the famous 16th century Château de Villa, the “temple” of wine in Valais, which has a stellar restaurant and an “vinotheque” wine bar/cellar, where 640 Grand Crus from over 100 vintners are available for wine tastings (they also have wine seminars). After we picked up our festival passes, a wine glass for sampling, and tickets for wine and food, off we went along the trail to see the sights and meet the winemakers.
Local Valais winemaker, Katia Zufferey, giving us a taste of her wine
Here is her wine, along with grapes from her family-owned vineyard
Local winemaker, Maurice Zufferey, and daughter, Anaïs, who accompanied us on behalf of the tourist board
Along the trail, approximately 50 Swiss wine makers from the Valais region set up tables and booths, offering tastings of their wines. Along the route, there are offerings of many culinary delights, such as the Swiss traditional raclette (melted cheese served with a potato and pickles), local food from Valais region, both traditional and contemporary music and entertainment.
Famous Swiss raclette cheese
Another local wine. It was raining so hard we had to park ourselves at a spot that had an awning.
Acapella entertainment
An organ grinder! How could this not put a smile on your face?
Unfortunately, it rained for the entire day (for some reason every time I attend a festival in Switzerland it rains). But people, and loads of them, came out regardless of the rain. There were families and young children, with some mothers pushing prams.
Families, babies and dogs came out in the rain
Another one of many stations set up by local producers
The 2018 festival will take place on September 8th. For more information and tickets, visit Marche des Cépages.
About Valais: The Valais (known as ‘Wallis’ in German) is a canton (like a province) in southern Switzerland, and is absolutely stunning. It is Switzerland’s most important wine region. The famous Matterhorn and is here, as well as upscale Alpine resorts, such as Zermatt, and many vineyards and orchards are found along the Rhône River. In addition to being Switzerland’s home to many vineyards, it is filled with fruit orchards. Rare spices are grown here, including saffron. The mountains surround you, as far as the eye can see.
Where to stay: Here’s an idea. If you are looking for an awesome view of the Alps and like to be in nature, Chandolin Boutique Hotel is a new 4 star classic Swiss chalet-style “sustainable” hotel that is well positioned in the Valais area for lots of sight-seeing and hiking (ski in winter). About 45 mins from Sierre, it has a breathtaking view, the rooms are cozy and it has a fabulous spa. The restaurant is inviting, impeccable service and it has a superb wine list with many Swiss wines. Address: Chandolin Boutique Hotel, Les plampras 10, CH – 3961 Chandolin. For information and reservations: contact. The bus goes to Chandolin from Sierre. (I will be writing more about this hotel in my next post).
Classic Swiss-style Chandolin Boutique Hotel
The view from my room…awe-inspiring
Hotel Restaurant
Getting there: The closest major airport is Geneva (179 kms). Also Bern airport is close (180 km). If you are coming in to Geneva, best way to get here is to take the train from Geneva (airport or city centre) to Sierre (2.5 hrs). To drive is (2 hrs). Check out the Swiss Travel Pass offerings. Train and bus travel is Switzerland is easy and convenient.
Resources: Valais Tourism, Swiss Tourism and Sierre Tourism.
Have you tried any Swiss wine from the Valais region? What is your favourite? I would love to hear from you. Tweet to me at @Shannon_Skinner.
I was a guest of Valais Tourism and Chandolin Boutique Hotel. Opinions are my own.
Shannon Skinner is an award-winning broadcaster, international speaker, author and travel journalist. She is based in Toronto. Watch her interviews at ExtrarodinaryWomenTV.com. For information on her speaking engagements, contact her at Shannon (at) ShannonSkinner.com.
Inside Switzerland’s Kasperskian Caviar: caviar with life
On a recent trip to Switzerland, I had an opportunity to visit a caviar production facility. Kasperskian Caviar is a relatively new company (2015), located in the Valais region of Switzerland, right in the heart of the Swiss Alps.
Kasperskian Caviar, “Caviar with Life.”
Considered a luxury food item, and possibly the world’s most expensive food, caviar (also called roe) is a delicacy comprised of salt-cured eggs of sturgeon fish (many species). The roe can be either fresh or pasteurized. However pasteurization reduces its value from a culinary and economic standpoint.
Frédéric Cherpin, Marketing and Sales Manager, Kasperskian Caviar, leading a tasting of the caviar. Since I’m a vegetarian, no caviar for me!
Enter Kasperskian Caviar — a unique company in the way it produces its caviar to maintain both culinary and economic value – and sustainability. Not only is it sustainable, it is ethical.
Kasperskian Caviar (the name is a play on Russia’s Caspian Sea) has created a sustainable business model and ethic, which they refer to as “caviar with life.” They produce pure caviar from sturgeon fish (Siberian/Baeril variety) while they are alive using an innovative method that retrieves the eggs of the female without harming them. Typically in caviar production, the fish are killed to retrieve the eggs, but that is what sets apart the Kasperskian company. So “caviar with life” means the fish provide caviar when they are alive.
The caviar master (yes, there is such a thing), takes the pregnant fish out of the water and quickly “massages” the fish and it releases its eggs. This happens in under one minute, since the fish obviously cannot stay out of water for long. After the eggs are retrieved, the fish goes back into the water and may again provide eggs for caviar (sorry, guys, the male fish meat goes to market).
It takes 5-10 years to get eggs from the sturgeon, one of the reasons caviar is so expensive.
The company uses the highest quality water from the Swiss mountains, which is why it based in Switzerland (another reason is one of the investors happens to be from the local area). Their sturgeon produce large, soft, high quality eggs, as a result. Only salt is added to the eggs with no preservatives or other additives, so they are pure and natural, and the highest quality of caviar one can get. This means, of course, a higher price, but for caviar lovers, it may be well worth it.
The lobby of the Kasperskian Caviar building
Each of the 1,000 fish in the production facilities – some as large as small sharks – have a name. It takes 2 years to determine the sex of the fish. Once the females are identified, a small “chip” is put in the fish to track its weight, food, health, etc., so they know everything about them.
Caviar pairs well with Champagne Frédéric Maletrez. Cheers!
While the company is currently only offering the Siberian/Baeril sturgeon variety of caviar, plans are under to produce another variety later in the year, in December 2017. As well, they have a halal certification, enabling them to export to the middle east in the near future.
The Valais region of Switzerland is absolutely stunning
As a vegetarian, I can’t vouch for the taste of the caviar, but I certainly found the tour educational and insightful. From the comments of those around me who did try the caviar, it was apparently quite tasty. For lovers of caviar in Canada, the company is not yet making their product available in Canada, but exporting soon is possibly within their sights.
For more information, visit: Kaspersian Caviar
Resources: Swiss Tourism and Valais Tourism
Arrangements courtesy of Valais Tourism. Opinions are my own.
Shannon Skinner is an award-winning broadcaster, international speaker, author, travel writer and wine specialist.
Budapest: Photo Essay
This is my second in a series of posts about my adventure with Viking River Cruises.
This month, I travelled the “Romantic Danube” with Viking River Cruises. My first cruise, ever. Viking is known for its state-of-the-art longships, which is ideal for rivers. It was smooth sailing all the way along the Danube, from Budapest, Hungary to Nuremberg, Germany. What a great way to experience Europe.
This is my photo essay from Budapest:
Budapest, the capital of Hungary, combines two cities: “hilly” Buda and “flat” Pest, which are divided by the Danube River (and no, it is not blue). I boarded the Viking River longboat in the heart of Budapest, for my week-long cruise along the Danube through Hungary, Austria and Germany. Also with me were about 190 passengers and 50 crew. But more about that later.
The Hungarian Parliament Building, one of the oldest parliament buildings in the world. We had an amazing view of it, under a twinkling, nearly full moon, as we cruised the Danube at night. In awe.
That’s me on the Viking River longboat sundeck. The famous Chain Bridge and Buda Castle appear behind me. The top deck of the ship has a walking track, which I used after indulging in some delicious meals onboard during the cruise.
St Stephen’s Basilica in Pest, the flat district. Is it a lively hub at night with surrounding restaurants and bars, such as this one. The menu boards are symmetrical. I found this inviting. Let’s say it has good fengshui.
A couple of the famous restaurants/cafes on hilly Buda Castle Hill. Look at the unique exteriors.
My favourite view overlooking the Danube from Castle Hill, in Buda. It was so hot outside I could not stand in one spot for more than a minute.
This is the House of Terror, a museum with exhibits about the fascist and communist regimes in 20th-century Hungary. We drove past it only on our Panoramic Tour of Budapest. The building exterior is unique and it is dedicated as a memorial.
Church of Matthias, one of the finest churches in Budapest’s Buda Castle Hill district, and was used for coronation of Hungarian kings. The interior is stunning. Although I took some photos, I have discovered that taking photos of inside of churches over the years never truly works out.
Temperature in Budapest was about 36C. Many people took advance of the sprinkler/mist systems to try to stay cool. Since I had my camera, I steered clear of the mist spray.
Instead I went shopping. Traditional Hungarian textiles at the local market on Buda Castle Hill. Reminds me of the kind of crochet work my Canadian-Ukranian grandmother used to do.
If you love magic, there is the House of Houdini, master illusionist. I ran out of time so I didn’t get to see the interior of the museum. It would have spooked me anyway.
Another vantage point from Castle Hill.
Near the Church of Matthias, a powerful bronze figure overlooks the Danube.
I was a guest of Viking River Cruises. Opinions are my own.
Shannon Skinner is an award-winning television and radio host/producer, author, speaker and travel writer.
Visit these famous wine regions and river valleys
Wine tourism is growing in popularity. There is something adventurous and, dare I say, good for the heart about visiting wineries, vineyards and their surroundings as a way to explore a country. For some nations, such as France and Italy, wine is at the heart of their culture, history and national identity (France even has a wine museum).
Mosel wine region of Germany, on the Moselle River (photo: German Wine Institute)
Many of the great wine regions of the world are located near major rivers, such as Portugal’s Douro Valley. When you combine a stunning view with a glass, or bottle, of a fine vino, it is no wonder wine tourism (enotourism) is a growing industry segment.
River valleys, such as the Loire, are ideal for grape growing. While soil type, sun and water are important elements in the vineyard, a river naturally moderates the climate, acting as a reservoir of heat or a cooling agent. This allows grapes to fully ripen and develop a balance of acids and sugars. Acidity is important. After all, it makes the difference between drinking a glass of wine or grape juice. When the vineyards are located near a river, it is easier to achieve desired acidity levels.
Not all wine regions have a river or are near a large body of water, such as La Mancha in Spain. But do not let that stop you from trying wine from arid areas, or from visiting. The wines can be good, although maybe not quite as notable as wines from regions with a river that moderates the climate.
Lastly, rivers are a terrific way for travelers to access the most spectacular wine regions, particularly by riverboat, and taste some of the finest wines in the world.
“Take me to the river.” ~ Al Green
If learning about wine and wine tourism is of interest to you, here are some ideas to get you going:
1. World-famous French wine regions: The prestigious Bordeaux, Burgundy, Champagne and Loire Valley (all UNESCO World Heritage Sites) are filled with charm and history; and their winemakers produce some of the finest wines in the world.
2. City of Wine (La Cité du Vin): Located on the banks of the Garonne River in Bordeaux wine country (approximately 5 hours from Paris), this museum is really a theme park for wine lovers.
3. Mosel Valley, Germany: Enjoy a relaxing pace in the picturesque Mosel Valley (UNESCO), with its quaint villages, medieval streets, steep vineyards, fairytale castles and, of course, world-famous Rieslings.
4. Duoro Valley, Portugal: Douro Valley (UENSCO) is the oldest demarcated wine region in the world and is the home of Port wine. It is a spectacular region and many vineyards are open as hotels.
5. Piedmont, Italy: One of Italy’s most acclaimed wine regions, situated in the Po Valley, between the Alps and Apennines. Famed for Nebbiolo noble grape. Italian cuisine and Barolo – what’s not to love?
6. Napa, United States: Napa is making some notable cabernet sauvignon, chardonnay and merlot wines, and is a hop-skip-jump from Toronto. Indulge yourself in a cooking class at the Culinary Institute of America.
7. Australia’s Margaret River: If you have plans to go Down Under anytime soon, check out Margaret River, Australia’s most famous wine region, located south of Perth. It is home to many world-class wineries and award-winning restaurants, and there are plenty of food events throughout the year.
8. Niagara, Ontario: Closer to home, Niagara wine region is always worth a day trip or weekend getaway to explore its wineries and vineyards, and the quaint shops and restaurants in Niagara-on-the-Lake.
Viking Longship on the Rhine River between Ehrenfels Castle in the foreground and Mouse Tower (Mäuseturm) in the background. The town of Bingen is across the river (photo: Viking River Cruises)
9. Riverboat Cruising: A practical way to see many European wine regions in one trip is to take a river cruise, such as the world-class Viking River Cruises.
10. Study and Learn: One of the best ways to learn about and “travel” the wine regions of the world, without breaking the bank, is to take a class. George Brown College has a terrific wine specialist program (I’m a graduate myself). Also consider hosting a wine tasting party for your friends by doing a tasting of wines from around the world, and you can learn together. Check out my website for more ideas.
What is your next wine adventure? I would love to hear from you. Tweet to me at @Shannon_Skinner.
Shannon Skinner is an award-winning broadcaster, international speaker, author and writer, who lives to travel and discover fine wines. She is also a graduate of George Brown College’s Wine Specialist Certificate program. She is based in Toronto. For information on her speaking engagements and interviews, visit: www.ShannonSkinner.com and www.ExtrarodinaryWomenTV.com.
* This article originally was published in Toronto Waterfront Magazine (Summer 2017).
